Vintage Perfumes

Vintage Perfumes

There are so many exquisite vintage perfumes that I adore.  I admit I have a passion for those created in the eighties and nineties.  I am a perfume hunter and I want to share some of my discoveries with you for some select masterpieces of of this period.

Vintage perfumes are in general more powerful and were often made with ingredients now limited or completely restricted due to regulations.   Vintage perfumes stored in a cool dark place hold their scent very well in my experience and I have gone to great lengths to preserve my treasure trove of vintage perfumes.

Here is a small sampling of the Vintage Perfumes and Colognes that I most love.   These fragrances make perfect, unique romantic gifts and often evoke memories and feelings from when these masterpieces were still on the market.

Vintage Chloe Narcisse

This is is a floral fragrance with a major daffodil influence.  The original Chloe Narcisse is feminine and sweet, with a perfect bitter note for contrast.  It is quite intense and a little goes a long way. The top notes include blossom, carnation, delicate violet, peach, pineapple and sweet orange blossom with a hint of violet.  This vintage perfume has a heart of carnation, gardenia, jasmine and rose.  At the Base of Choloe Narcisse is cedar, musk, sandalwood and vanilla.  Chloe Narcisse was launched in 1992.

Vintage Chloe Narcisse is a beautiful balance of sweet and spicy with a feminine softness. While it is assuredly a floral, it is no indolic and is not piercing but softly sweet in a natural way. The complex composition of notes is beautifully orchestrated . I would describe it as a bouquet of sweet florals, rose, narcissi and hint of desert peaches, plums and apricots offset with hint allspice and a touch of metallic jasmine.

Chloe Narcisse is a truly deeply feminine fragrance, luscious and thick, dark and yet ironically projecting a feeling of softness and lightness. It is a fragrance of sublime contrasts.

Like a perfect symphonic composition, no one not stands out. Narcisse was truly a work of genius in my opinion and any collector of classic and vintage perfumes will want this one on the shelf.

Vintage Christian Dior Poison

Vintage Christian Dior Poison is a time machine that will transport you to the 1980’s.  It is a feminist fragrance.  Poison is powerful, gorgeous, smart and womanly.  Poison starts strong, dark, spicy and grapey, turning to a lighter floral cinnamon and finishes with a honey-vanilla.

The composition of Christian Dior Poison is both beautiful and deadly, and it’s intensity only multiplies its danger. Even light contact with this purple potion can result in hours of stimulating olfactory ostentation for you and those who you are with.

While Christian Dior Poison has extraordinary impact and can at first be over powering, I’m not sure Poison would still work if it were any less bombastic or aggressively brazen.   The sheer enormity of Christian Dior Poison is at the heart of its very identity.  If you’re strong enough to ride out the intoxicating floral tidal wave at Poison’s heart, you’ll be rewarded to a magnificently delightfully soft and creamy sandalwood, amber dry down.

Vintage Christian Dior Poison is the most potent perfume of the 80’s and among the most unique.  Given the right occasion or prey, it is unmatched for creating atmosphere.  Big, bold, grapey sweet with an amazing blue- and redberry-on-winemost accord that’s has been drenched in a honey sweet rose-bath.  Its acts like a cougar ready to take the jump to catch its prey.  Vintage Christian Dior is one for any connoisseur of fine fragrance to have in the arsenal of powerhouse vintage perfumes.

Vintage Paco Rabanne Metal

Vintage Paco Rabanne Metal is a genius composition and is a spectrum of shiny April florals that hold so much promise. Its flirty and feminine.  It has a chypre(oakmoss-vetiver) character that soars into its own dimension. Its drydown is the mysterious new metal domain! Its contemporaries were Ivoire, Nahema and Anais Anais. They were larger than life and elevated modern perfumery to new heights.  Indeed, they set the course for the next decade.

I pick up a little of the damasceana rose in here. Nahema fans take note. Its rich, radiant and well composed, with notes intentionally peeking out here and there. This is fine art in fragrance.

This fragrance is sweet and metallic. A bouquet of flowers nestled into a modern metal vase, with moss covered rocks at its base. There is also a human quality to this scent. The natural metal fragrance of the skin. As well as the sweetness and warmth beneath it.  Robert Gonnon was the creator of this vintage perfume.

Vintage Sublime by Jean Patou

The original Sublime by Jean Patou opens with a magnificent mandarin orange and definitive green bergamot.  Early into its heart, orange marries with potent carnation ylang-ylang florals which perfectly compliment the underlying rose even as oakmoss and vanilla rise from the base adding an underlying sheen of powdery sandalwood, tonka bean and amber and a perfect mild sweetness.

As the dry down matures  the ylang-ylang, organe, powdery vanilla, sandalwood and amber all persist as a hint of animalic musk and beautifully integrated civit bring synergy and balance to this magnificent fragrance.  The original Sublime  has excellent project and longevity in the 6 – 10 hour range.

Vintage Sublime by Jean Patou is rich, radiant and potently sexy and yet sublimely so.  For me the greatest curiosity of this vintage perfume masterpiece is in the heart notes, where some dense but sublime florals are played contrasting one another. This elegant mixture of slightly sweet and bitter components provide a projection soft spoken beauty.

This classic fragrance embodies a fashionable reticence that reflects the olfactory awareness and confidence of Patou’s confidence and character in my opinion.

Vintage Sublime by Jean Patou is a timeless classic and among the most softly spoken and yet potently sensual masterpieces of fragrance. Every connoisseur of the classic vintage fragrances will want this one in the arsenal of vintage classics. Men, you will love this on your partner in my opinion.

Vintage Sublime by Jean Patou opens with a magnificent mandarin orange and definitive green bergamot.  Early into its heart, orange marries with potent carnation ylang-ylang florals which perfectly compliment the underlying rose even as oakmoss and vanilla rise from the base adding an underlying sheen of powdery sandalwood, tonka bean and amber and a perfect mild sweetness.

As the dry down matures Vintage Sublime by Jean Patou the yland-yland, organe, powdery vanilla, sandalwood and amber all persist as a hint of animalic musk and beautifully integrated civit bring synergy and balance to this magnificent fragrance. Vintage Sublime by Jean Patou has excellent project and longevity in the 6 – 10 hour range.

Vintage Sublime by Jean Patou is rich, radiant and potently sexy and yet sublimely so.  For me the greatest curiosity of this vintage masterpiece is in the heart notes, where some dense but sublime florals are played contrasting one another. This elegant mixture of slightly sweet and bitter components provide a projection soft spoken beauty.

Vintage Sublime by Jean Patou embodies a fashionable reticence that reflects the olfactory awareness and confidence of Patou’s confidence and character in my opinion.

Vintage Sublime by Jean Patou is a timeless classic and among the most softly spoken and yet potently sensual masterpieces of fragrance.   Every connoisseur of the classic vintage fragrances will want to have this in their collection. Men, you will love this on your partner in my opinion.

Vintage Anna Sui

Anna Sui was introduced in 1999. The Top notes are apricot, bergamot, green accord, orange, and raspberry with middle floral notes of iris, jasmine, orris root, lily-of-the-valley and Bulgarian rose and the base notes are tonka bean, sandalwood, amber and cedar.

Vintage Ana Sui fragrance which reminds me of fresh, juicy black currants, oranges with violets and a bouquet of fresh flowers. It is both edgy and dark while being young at heart, sweet and yet a totally feminine fragrance and I love it for that!

The vintage perfume opens with a blast of black currant, oranges, raspberry (juicy trio) and fresh florals upon the initial spray and as Anna Sui   warms up powdery violets emerge with heliotrope, jasmine and cedar shining thru.   The silage of Anna Sui is about a half a day and is comfortably light and can be work every day with comfort and style.

To me Vintage Anna Sui is black lingerie, blood red lipstick, sultry eyes and lace in a bottle. While there is something quite innocent about this fragrance, there is also something very vampirish and deeply feminine about this classic fragrance. Vintage bottles of this magnificent fragrance are increasingly rare.

Balmain Vent Vert

Balmain Vent Vert is another wonderful perfume from this period.  The opening notes of Balmain Vent Vert are a burst of fresh greens – crushed stems, leaves, cut grass and sage.  Once the dry-down begins, however, the scent settles into something like powdery limes — sweet in a lovely and an excellent background for the musk and florals as they blossom and at last the perfume taking on the quality of its name, “green wind”.

As the base notes of Balamn Vent Vert sound, and the musk and florals interweave with the sugared limes and greens, the perfume feels like a soft, gentle spring breeze, carrying on it the floral notes of fruit trees in flower, twigs, sap and all.

The aldehyde laden galbanum and cut grass opening of Balamain Vent Vert is serenely refreshing, though it softens under the influence of white floral notes within an hour or less. The primary accord, evident within minutes, is soapy white flowers, grass, and powder.

The top notes are of Balamain Vent Vert are lime, orange blossom, green notes, asafoetida, peach, basil, lemon, bergamot and neroli and the middle notes are violet, freesia, jasmine, hiacynth, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, rose, galbanum, marigold and spicy notes while the base notes are iris, sandalwood, amber, musk, oakmoss, sage, vetiver, styrax and cedar.

Vintage Paco by Paco Rabanne

If you ever wonder why lovers of vintage perfumes and colognes regret the new restrictions on classical perfume ingredients then find a sample of Vintage Paco by Paco Rabanne and find out for yourself.

In the case of Vintage Paco by Paco Rabbane the reason its so fantastic is Oak-moss.  Vintage Paco by Paco Rabanne  is all about oakmoss, and oak-moss is on the IFRA’s list of restricted substances for new formulations.  Oakmoss was used as a fixative, but also to provide depth to the aromatic fougeres like Paco Rabanne or Azzaro.   Modern formulations use substitutes like Tree-moss or synthetics to mimic the effect, but NOTHING compares to the real thing in my opinion.

Vintage Paco by Paco Rabanne is a masterpiece of the olfactory arts.  It is fresh, clean and oh so green and yet remains  impeccably refined at the same time. If you’ve had experience with the classic Polo than you can imagine that fragrance but substantially more subtle.

Vintage Paco by Paco Rabanne is totally appropriate and attractive when out on the town, in the office and is one of the great classic vintage perfumes.  My personal opinion is that compared to the vintage version of this fragrance the new formulation is a bit of a green-citric soft drink.  The silage on the vintage if phenomenal courtesy of the oak moss.  Don’t expect the same from modern formulations.

Hermes Bel Ami

This men’s cologne is a classic in my opinion.

Hermes Bel Ami was released in 1986. It is a beautiful Leather Chypre. There has been at least one subsequent reformulation that I am aware of and it isn’t vaguely the same fragrance in my opinion.

To buy Hermes Bel Ami click here.

There is a massive difference between the original Hermes Bel Ami, which is found in a bottle that resembles a cocktail shaker. The new formula of Hermes Bel Ami is in the same tapered rectangular bottle that Hermes is offering nearly all their fragrances in. The new Bel Ami is a simple leather chypre – competent but nothing outstanding. The unique citrus/leather accord is gone and one need not get too excited about the fragrance. I would rate the new formula as neutral – it’s a good, inexpensive leather chypre but that’s about it.

As for the vintage Hermes Bel Ami formula; it is impeccable and hard to find this increasingly rare vintage cologne but if you do, it will reward you with a most unique fragrance and impression. It starts with a wave of citrus supported with spices including cardamom and a touch of cumin. The citrus-spice reminds me of the timeless Eau d Hermes but much richer and likely because of the florals dancing around the top notes.

In an hour or less the citrus and spices of Hermes Bel Ami recede somewhat into a smooth herbal leather accord backed by sandalwood. The progression from spice to woody notes and leather is reminiscent of other vintage fragrances such as Lanvin Scandal and the vintage Cuir de Lancome. Hermes Bel Ami presents qualities coupled with modern twists that makes it stand alone as a unique, timeless and mysterious masculine fragrance. Vintage Bel Ami longevity is excellent, lasting well past 8 hours. The leathery/sandalwood base lasts for a very long time. As of this posting I have just a very few bottles remaining of this unique masculine fragrance. If there are any remaining by the time you read this you will find them here.   In addition to the dozens of vintage perfumes I have listed at my store and on ebay there are over 150 other vintage perfumes listed here that you can feel free to call me about and purchase while they last.  This is one of the must have vintage perfumes in my opinion.

 MCM Success

MCM Success is a demure 80’s fragrance with top notes of bergamot, honey, rose, lemon, orange and tobacco with middles notes of patchouli, vetiver, carnation, orris, jasmin, cedar and has base notes of moss, vanilla, benzoin, amber, lether, honey and musk.

MCM Success is a unique and classy men’s cologne scent which projects, confidence, power and wealth. Success opens with an alcoholic burst that rapidly transforms into an eclectic citric rose. The entire composition has the presence of honey and somehow the fragrance brings out suggestions of testosterone.   The next element to assimilate is tobacco and this combined with patchouli, vetiver and wood, raise the volume of the tobacco note and thus the confident and powerful masculine projection.

Vintage Perfumes

MCM Success pour Homme

MCM Success is a powerful 80s fragrance, which worn cautiously remains wildly pertinent today. MCM Success is an old-fashioned caricature of manliness created with alcohol and tobacco, part country club; part macho. While it is definitely vintage, if your looking for a fragrance which projects classic masculine class, wealth and power, this is a very good choice. Unfortunately, this fragrance is both discontinued and very much underrated, so if you can get it, grab it before the last bottle has been purchased, which I wouldn’t anticipate being too long.

MCM Success has floral to compliment the top and mid notes. However the primary notes I detect are leather and fine aromatic tobacco. The is an earthy quality of patchouli in MCM Success which is coupled with vetiver and moss. It is one of the most masculine scents I have encountered.

I would not recommend wearing this in the heat. While it is basically a leather and oakmoss scent with a smoked honey essence to it, I appreciate the fact that it’s a toned-down classic.

While there are some floral elements to the top- and mid-notes, the dominant notes to my nose are tobacco and leather. In this vein, it is similar to Creed’s Tabarome, though not quite so dry as that classic scent. The earthiness of patchouli is also present in MCM Success, along with vetiver and moss. It is a very masculine scent, and I should definitely wear it more often.Wicozani

The honey, that is evident in the entire composition, also is exposed here and it’s more gritty and resinous than feral. At least to me, there aren’t animalics present. There is, however, testosterone abounding.   This fragrance is now very rare and as of this posting I only have a few bottles remaining.   If I have any remaining by the time you read this they will be found here.

Opium Pour Homme

Opium Pour Homme is a spicy oriental fragrance for men and was launched in 1995. The top notes are black currant, anise and star with middle notes of galanga and pepper and base notes of atlas, tolu balsam, bourban vanilla, and cedar.

Opium Pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent is a Oriental Spicy fragrance for men. Opium Pour Homme was launched in 1995. The nose behind this fragrance is Jacques Cavallier. Top notes are black currant and star anise; middle notes are galanga and pepper; base notes are tolu balsam, atlas cedar and bourbon vanilla.

Opium Pour Homme is a sparkling, pungent, balsamic sweet scent in the coldest nights. It is definitely a cold and cool weather men’s fragrance and not to be worn in the heat but is a unique and I would say mysterious cold weather fragrance, resonating with a cosmic anise, spices, various citrus notes and beautifully woody notes.

Opium pour Homme

Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

Opium Pour Homme EDT is a wonderful fresh oriental fragrance with sparkling cool notes of citrus, ginger, galanga and cedar. This is definitely a fragrance for the cool evening and some would consider it pure magic, embodying a mysterious luxury, capturing the dimensions of the orient within the soul of a western heart.

This fragrances is both sweet and spicy at the same time and some would say it is intoxicating. It opens with a very sweet smell, possibly coming from the black currant and remains sweet in the dry down. The prominent smell of vanilla accompanies the dry down with the added hint of tolu balm, giving it a rare syrupy sweet and spicy smell. It has fantastic projection and can easily last well over 10 hours.

Opium Pour Homme is masculine vanilla done right: soft, elegant, and sweetly sexy instead of obnoxiously gourmand. It drys to a warm, mildly leathery, patchouli-cedar with a wisp of vanilla smoke. This fragrance doesn’t get boring. This is another one for the collectors shelf. Elegant, discerning fragrance connoisseurs and men seeking unique and timeless vintage masculine colognes.

This classic vintage cologne is becoming more rare with each passing day.  As of the the posting of this article I have only a few bottles remaining.  If there are any left you can check here.

 

A few photos of some of my other favorites:

Vintage Perfume Bel Ami

Vintage Perfume

 

Vintage Perfume

Vintage Perfume

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